Washington Square Park Renovations

Any "chess tourists" who might be visiting New York City this holiday season should take the famous chess tables in the Southwest corner of Washington Square Park (site of Waitzkin's epiphany and training and the Amp Can's triumph) off their list of places to stop.  The chess tables were removed in early October when the overall park renovation moved to that quadrant.  A KCC regular informs me that the place looks like a disaster zone, but a recent article he sent from Curbed, NY ("Teary Destructoporn: Washington Square Park Mounds, RIP") says that the removal is not permanent and "Games of skill will also return, and wits will be tested once again all along Washington Square South," likely by the summer.  You can follow news of the reconstruction's progress at the Washington Square Park blog.

Keeping Chess Shops Afloat

The New York Observer's "Rival Thompson Street Chess Clubs Remain in Middle Game" profiles New York City's Chess Forum and Village Chess Shop, offering real insight into the difficulties of keeping a chess shop afloat in the internet age. It also relates the history of bad blood between the two clubs, which began when the Chess Shop's manager decided to go into the same business less than a stone's throw down the street.... Hat tip: Tom Panelas's The Knights of the Castle Kimbark.

Masters & Hustlers

"Masters & Hustlers" is an interesting new media website by Columbia University grad students Jennie Cohen and Radha Vij that tries to capture chess culture in New York City. It is a good effort for a school project and worth a look. Hat tip: Dylan Loeb McClain's Gambit blog. Note: some people have had trouble loading the site.

Another Chess Tourist in New York

Tom Panelas tells us a fun way for chessplayers to tour "New York in Nine Hours" at his blog The Knights of Castle Kimbark. I imagine him making his way through various chess destinations to arrive at Times Square to see the ball drop. I'm glad he mentions the Chess & Checkers House in Central Park (even if he didn't make it there either), since it is a lovely chess tourist destination and very active of late (having only re-opened in the past two years), hosting a number of simuls and events. There are also a number of games clubs in the City, including the Midtown Backgammon & Chess Club (265 West 37th Street ), Ace Point Club (328 East 61st Street), the New York Chess & Backgammon Club (120 West 41st Street). I might also mention The Compleat Strategist (11 East 33rd Street) for general boardgame junkies.

Visit my post "A Chess Tourist in New York City" or click on the "chess tourism" label for some of my other posts on this topic.

Chess Tourist Returns

I went into New York City on Saturday and did my Chess Tourist routine. I started out this time at Fred Wilson's chess book shop at the St. Denis, 80 East 11th Street (just around the corner from The Strand), in Suite 334.

The St. Denis (facing East, toward Broadway)

Fred and his cat, showing off classic chess sets.

Fred is always great to talk to and we spent a couple hours together while I browsed his selection of books. I have been urging him to put together a CD of his interview shows from ChessFM (preferably before I take my next long road trip), and he tells me that he finally intends to do so now that he has ended his relationship with ICC and secured control of his shows. He also wanted me to mention that he gives a lecture every third Friday from 7:00-8:30 p.m. in Suite 333, right next door to his shop, which is a comfortable little divan. The price is $15 per person. The next one is July 20th, on the art of the kingside attack. Space is limited, so he asks that you call ahead during his operating hours of Monday - Saturday, 12-7 at 212-533-6381.

Fred also pointed out that I was wrong in my Chess Tourist piece about his having inherited Albrecht Buschke's book shop at the St. Denis. He actually took over his current space before Buschke retired and he did not even get Buschke's merchandise. It's amazing to think that there was once a time when there were two great book shops in the same building. Later that night, I was to learn from Dr. Frank Brady, the current president of the Marshall Chess Club, that the offices of the USCF and Chess Life (of which he was the founding editor) were also once housed in the St. Denis, and that Dr. Brady once helped Marcel Duchamp find space there, where he very likely worked on one of his last pieces, Étant donnés, now at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

After Fred's, I went around the corner to The Strand at 12th and Broadway. The selection was not as good as last time, but I did manage to pick up a very inexpensive copy of Andrew Martin's book on the Center-Counter.

The Strand Bookstore (12th and Broadway)

Finally, it was off to The Marshall Chess Club, at 23 West 10th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues, where they were having a Swiss.

The Marshall Chess Club

I saw that Jim West published his three best games from the event with the remark: "My only loss came to the birthday boy, international master Jay Bonin, who received his present from me when I hung a piece."

I actually arrived at the club just as his game with Bonin ended and had the good fortune of being invited out with "the birthday boy" and Dr. Brady to celebrate between rounds at a fantastic Chinese restaurant just down the street (near 10th and 6th Ave. if I remember right, but the name escapes me).

IM Jay Bonin

IM Bonin offered me the score to his game with West for the blog (it was a Philidor's Counter Gambit), but his handwriting was too illegible for me to promise that I'd be able to reproduce it. Bonin must have thousands of interesting games like that one which will likely never be seen by anyone but the participants.

It turns out that he is such a regular at this restaurant that when they heard it was his birthday the staff brought out a date pastry with a candle in celebration after our meal (which he barely had time to finish as he rushed off to the last round). A nice way to end my visit.

Bonin blows out the candle...

A Chess Tourist in New York City

If you visit New York City this summer, you will probably want to stop at these "chess tourism" destinations:

1. The Strand Bookstore
http://www.strandbooks.com/
828 Broadway at 12th Street. Open Monday through Saturday, 9:30 a.m. - 10:30 p.m. and Sundays 11:00 a.m. - 10:30 p.m. Phone 212.473.1452.
This is always my first stop on trips to New York City, since I don't want to purchase anything at another shop that I could have for up to 70% off at The Strand. You will find their table of "Chess Specials" around the middle of the downstairs area, next to lots of books on baseball. Many of the books there are remaindered for a reason (meaning you probably wouldn't want them either), but I never walk away with fewer than three titles when I go. Check their excellent website for their current inventory (where you can also order direct online). Last time I was there, I found The Birth of the Chess Queen ($7.95 hardcover); practically every book on Fischer, including Bobby Fischer Goes to War ($5.95); every book on Nigel Short, including the excellent Profile of a Prodigy ($4.95 hardcover); lots of New in Chess Yearbooks (50% off); and a variety of interesting cast-offs, including The Lost Olympiad: Stockhold 1937 and a book on the late midwest master Billy Colias (which I will be discussing in a future post).

The chess table downstairs at The Strand

2. Fred Wilson Chess Books
http://www.fredwilsonchess.com/
80 East 11th Street, Suite 334. Open Monday through Saturday from 12-7. Call 212.533.6381 for information or to ask for specific titles.
If you love chess books (especially out of print books), then you will have to stop at Fred Wilson's, where you will usually find the man himself in his packed office space (which he took over from the legendary Albrecht Buschke). Fred is well known for his wonderful interviews at ChessFM. He is also a master chessplayer, lecturer, and published author (whose credits include historical works such as A Pictorial History of Chess and several titles for beginners, including 303 Tricky Chess Tactics). Fred mentioned that his website will soon be more current with his inventory (which numbers about 3,000 books I'd guess), but I think there is nothing like going in person to make that odd discovery and, of course, to chat with the erudite Mr. Wilson, who is a very helpful guide and chess bibliophile. When I was there recently, I was lucky enough to find two large unopened boxes of books he had recently purchased from a collector, which contained several sought after out-of-print titles. The prices for everything were very reasonable and lower than you are likely to find at E-Bay or elsewhere. Fred also sells new books, old journals and magazines (including old copies of Inside Chess, Chess Life and Chess Review), and some chess sets. If you are looking for something particular, odds are fairly good you will find it at Fred Wilson's. And, in any event, you will likely find more books of interest than you can carry.

Fred Wilson at his chess book shop.

3. Washington Square Park
Washington Square and 4th Street, about three blocks west of Broadway.
The chessplayers gather in the southwest corner of the park, near MacDougal and W. 4th Street, in a hemisphere of chess tables. There are many "chess hustlers" here, looking to make a few bucks from blitz opponents. And, if you have the right attitude, it might even be fun to drop a few games to them (usually winning in material but losing on the clock). But whether or not you play a game, you ought to stop by this classic chess tourist destination, at least on the way to nearby Thompson Street where you will find two more chess shops (see below).

Chess players in Washington Square Park.

Chess hustlers and "artists."

4. Village Chess Shop
http://www.chess-shop.com/
230 Thompson Street. Open 11-midnight every day (call 212.475.9580 for information).
Serving practically as a casual chess club for the community, the Village Chess Shop sells used and new books and chess sets. But I usually see more people playing chess than shopping when I go. It is located just a few blocks down Thompson Street from Washington Square Park.

The Village Chess Shop

5. Chess Forum
http://www.chessforum.com/
219 Thompson Street. Open 11-midnight every day (call 212.475.2369 for information).
If you are looking for a chess set of any kind, you would do well to stop first at the Chess Forum, which carries a wide variety of both standard and unique pieces and boards. You will also find a wide variety of chess software and some books. The staff is very professional, friendly, and helpful and visitors just interested in looking at their wide variety of amusing theme sets are welcome. The shop is located just a little ways further south from Washington Square Park than the Village Chess Shop, on the opposite side of the street.

Chess Forum

Chess sets at Chess Forum.

6. The Marshall Chess Club
http://www.marshallchessclub.org/
23 West 10th Street. Call 212.477.3716 for more information.
Regular office hours: Monday - Friday 6:00 p.m. - 12:00 midnight and Saturday - Sunday 12:00 noon - 12:00 midnight, but members will often open up at other hours.
Though only members have a key to the club, most anyone is welcome to visit for a look around and, if you're lucky, a casual game (though I usually find that there is more interest in rated play than casual play). See the website for membership details and activities.

7. The New York Public Library
http://www.nypl.org/
5th Avenue and 42nd Street
The main humanities and social sciences library carries most of the 1000+ chess holdings of the New York public libraries. Check their catalog ahead of time to request specific volumes. Copy services on the premises.

New York Public Library

8. Coliseum Bookstore and Cafe -- NOW CLOSED!!!
http://www.coliseumbooks.com/
11 West 42nd Street, between 5th and 6th. Open Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. - 8:30 p.m., Saturday 11-8:30 p.m., and Sunday noon - 7:00 p.m.
Formerly located across the street from the main branch of the New York Public Library (see above) and Bryant Park, Coliseum Books had one of the largest selections of new chess books of any store in the city. But it closed within months of my visit....

The Former Coliseum Bookstore and Cafe

Thus concludes my brief itinerary for a "chess tourist's" visit to New York City. Please use the comments area to list any sites I left out. I welcome "chess tourist's" guides to other cities and invite my fellow chess bloggers to provide them on their own blogs.